Journal
Notes from the road
Craft, food, trains and the practical things we get asked. Written by us.
Craft · 20 October 2026
The glaze and the crane
What Korean celadon is, why the cranes are inlaid, and where to see it outside a glass case.
Read-
How to sleep on a heated floor
Stays
28 September 2026
-
Kimjang, and why November smells of garlic
Food
2 September 2026
-
Seoul for three days. Then the train south.
Getting around
14 August 2026
-
Your teenagers will want Hongdae. Let them.
Families
30 July 2026