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Journal · Families ·

Your teenagers will want Hongdae. Let them.

How we split a Seoul stay between the city your children came for and the one you came for.

A busy street by Hongik University station at night — Hongdae, Seoul

Many families come to Korea because the teenagers asked. They know the music, the shows and the shops better than any guide. The trick is not to drag them round palaces all day, or to spend your whole trip in a queue for a pop-up.

Split days

We plan mornings together and afternoons apart. One guide takes the teenagers to Hongdae, Seongsu and the shops; another takes you to Seochon, a tea house and a gallery. Everyone meets for dinner at a barbecue table, where the teenagers order.

One big day

Every family trip gets one day that everyone remembers: a DMZ visit with a historian, a ridge on Hallasan, or a morning with the haenyeo on Jeju. Teenagers who were bored at a temple are rarely bored on a mountain.

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The glaze and the crane

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