Twelve months · dishes and markets
Twenty-four seasons, one kimjang
Food calendar
What to eat, and where, each month
Korea eats by the season, and the seasons are sharp. This is what we plan meals around. Seasons move a week or two with the weather, so treat the edges as soft [verify].
January
Deep winter. Sea food is at its fattest and soups do the work.
Dishes at their best
- Gul 굴Oysters from Tongyeong, raw or in rice soupSouth coast
- Daegu-tang 대구탕Cod stew with radishBusan, Geoje
- Gwamegi 과메기Half-dried saury eaten with seaweed and garlicPohang
Market of the month
- Jagalchi MarketWinter fish at the morning auctions verify timesBusan
February
Lunar New Year falls in late January or February verify date.
Dishes at their best
- Tteokguk 떡국Rice-cake soup, eaten at New Year to add a yearEverywhere
- Hallabong 한라봉Jeju’s big, sweet tangerinesJeju
- Bangeo 방어Yellowtail, raw, at the end of its seasonJeju
Market of the month
- Dongmun MarketCitrus by the box and a night marketJeju City
March
The first wild greens. Markets fill with small bundles of herbs.
Dishes at their best
- Naengi 냉이Shepherd’s purse in soybean-paste stewEverywhere
- Jjukkumi 쭈꾸미Webfoot octopus, stir-fried with chilliWest coast
- Dallae 달래Wild chive, in soy dressingEverywhere
Market of the month
- Five-day marketsGrandmothers selling greens on the pavementCountryside towns
April
Blossom month. The first tea leaves appear late in the month verify.
Dishes at their best
- Hwajeon 화전Rice-flour pancakes pressed with azalea petalsEverywhere
- Ssuk-tteok 쑥떡Mugwort rice cakeEverywhere
- Ujeon tea 우전The first-picked green tea, before the grain rain verifyBoseong, Hadong
Market of the month
- Gwangjang MarketSpring greens and bindaetteokSeoul
May
Tea season and anchovy season. The best month to be on the south coast.
Dishes at their best
- Sejak tea 세작Second-picking green teaBoseong
- Myeolchi 멸치Fresh anchovy, grilled or in a stewGijang, Busan verify
- Dureup 두릅Fatsia shoots, blanched, with chilli pasteMountains
Market of the month
- Boseong tea fieldsFarm tea rooms open for the new pickingBoseong
June
Plums for syrup, and the start of the summer noodles. Rainy season begins late in the month verify.
Dishes at their best
- Maesil 매실Green plums, made into syrup and wineGwangyang, Hadong
- Kongguksu 콩국수Noodles in cold soy-milk brothEverywhere
- Chamoe 참외Yellow Korean melonSeongju
Market of the month
- Nambu MarketThe night market opens on weekend evenings verifyJeonju
July
Monsoon and heat. The hottest days (boknal) have their own dish.
Dishes at their best
- Samgyetang 삼계탕Whole young chicken with ginseng, eaten on boknal daysEverywhere
- Naengmyeon 냉면Cold buckwheat noodles, Pyongyang or Hamhung styleSeoul
- Corn 옥수수Steamed sweetcorn from the mountain farmsGangwon
Market of the month
- Jungang MarketSquid and the cold east seaSokcho
August
Late summer fruit. Peaches are at their best.
Dishes at their best
- Boksunga 복숭아White peachesIcheon, Jochiwon
- Mulhoe 물회Raw fish in an iced, spicy brothEast coast
- Patbingsu 팥빙수Shaved ice with red beansEverywhere
Market of the month
- Jagalchi MarketSummer mulhoe by the harbourBusan
September
Harvest moon. Chuseok, the harvest festival, falls in September or early October verify date.
Dishes at their best
- Songpyeon 송편Half-moon rice cakes steamed on pine needlesEverywhere
- Jeoneo 전어Gizzard shad, grilled wholeSouth coast
- Naju pears 배Large, crisp Asian pearsNaju
Market of the month
- Gyeongdong MarketHerbs, roots and Chuseok gift boxesSeoul
October
New rice, mushrooms and prawns. Maples in the mountains.
Dishes at their best
- Songi 송이Pine mushrooms, briefly grilledYangyang, Bonghwa verify
- Daeha 대하Big prawns, salt-grilledWest coast
- Haessal 햅쌀The year’s new riceEverywhere
Market of the month
- Andong Old MarketJjimdak alley and the autumn harvestAndong
November
Kimjang: families make the winter’s kimchi together. Persimmons hang under the eaves.
Dishes at their best
- Kimjang kimchi 김장김치Napa cabbage kimchi made in bulk for winterEverywhere
- Gotgam 곶감Dried persimmonsSangju, Yeongdong
- Kkomak 꼬막Cockles, blanched with soy and chilliBeolgyo, Boseong
Market of the month
- Beolgyo MarketCockle season opens verifyBoseong
December
Cold and clear. Street food is at its best when it is below zero.
Dishes at their best
- Hotteok 호떡Pancakes filled with brown sugar and seedsBusan, Seoul
- Bangeo 방어Yellowtail, raw, in seasonJeju (Moseulpo)
- Gul-bap 굴밥Oyster rice in a stone potTongyeong
Market of the month
- Gwangjang MarketSteam, griddles and long counters on cold nightsSeoul
The year at a glance
- JanGulDaegu-tang · Gwamegi
- FebTteokgukHallabong · Bangeo
- MarNaengiJjukkumi · Dallae
- AprHwajeonSsuk-tteok · Ujeon tea
- MaySejak teaMyeolchi · Dureup
- JunMaesilKongguksu · Chamoe
- JulSamgyetangNaengmyeon · Corn
- AugBoksungaMulhoe · Patbingsu
- SepSongpyeonJeoneo · Naju pears
- OctSongiDaeha · Haessal
- NovKimjang kimchiGotgam · Kkomak
- DecHotteokBangeo · Gul-bap
Marketsatfirstlight
Jagalchi Market, Busan
35° 05′ N, 129° 02′ E
Photo Daniel Bernard / Unsplash
