South Korea for curious grown-ups: Seoul's design and food, then temples, tea fields, islands and craft villages most visitors miss.
Maebyeong, celadon with inlaid cranes · pale glaze
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Photo Sean Lee / Unsplash -
Photo KS KYUNG / Unsplash -
Photo Ji Yong Won / Unsplash -
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Photo Alicja Podstolska / Unsplash
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We plan private trips through South Korea for people who have been to Japan, liked it, and want something less rehearsed. Three days in Seoul, then the train south: to temples in the mountains, tea on the hills, clan villages, islands and the workshops of people who still make things by hand.
How a trip feels
Korea moves fast, and Seoul moves fastest. We build the trip so you keep pace for a few days, then step off.
Every route follows the season: blossom in April, green tea in May, maples in late October, kimjang in November. You travel by train where the train is better, with a driver where it is not, and with a guide only when a guide adds something.
Two nights, not one. The second morning is usually the reason you came.
Sample journeysWhere we go
Nine places, in three regions, joined by the KTX. We know them in every season and we send you to each one at the right time of year.
Jeonju’s tables, tea on the hills at Boseong, reed beds and islands, then a short flight to Jeju.
Slowboatsto theislands
Tongyeong harbour, south coast
34° 51′ N, 128° 26′ E
Photo Cecelia Chang / Unsplash
Deep winter. Sea food is at its fattest and soups do the work.
- Gul 굴Oysters from Tongyeong, raw or in rice soupSouth coast
- Daegu-tang 대구탕Cod stew with radishBusan, Geoje
- Gwamegi 과메기Half-dried saury eaten with seaweed and garlicPohang
Lunar New Year falls in late January or February verify date.
- Tteokguk 떡국Rice-cake soup, eaten at New Year to add a yearEverywhere
- Hallabong 한라봉Jeju’s big, sweet tangerinesJeju
- Bangeo 방어Yellowtail, raw, at the end of its seasonJeju
The first wild greens. Markets fill with small bundles of herbs.
- Naengi 냉이Shepherd’s purse in soybean-paste stewEverywhere
- Jjukkumi 쭈꾸미Webfoot octopus, stir-fried with chilliWest coast
- Dallae 달래Wild chive, in soy dressingEverywhere
Blossom month. The first tea leaves appear late in the month verify.
- Hwajeon 화전Rice-flour pancakes pressed with azalea petalsEverywhere
- Ssuk-tteok 쑥떡Mugwort rice cakeEverywhere
- Ujeon tea 우전The first-picked green tea, before the grain rain verifyBoseong, Hadong
Tea season and anchovy season. The best month to be on the south coast.
- Sejak tea 세작Second-picking green teaBoseong
- Myeolchi 멸치Fresh anchovy, grilled or in a stewGijang, Busan verify
- Dureup 두릅Fatsia shoots, blanched, with chilli pasteMountains
Plums for syrup, and the start of the summer noodles. Rainy season begins late in the month verify.
- Maesil 매실Green plums, made into syrup and wineGwangyang, Hadong
- Kongguksu 콩국수Noodles in cold soy-milk brothEverywhere
- Chamoe 참외Yellow Korean melonSeongju
Monsoon and heat. The hottest days (boknal) have their own dish.
- Samgyetang 삼계탕Whole young chicken with ginseng, eaten on boknal daysEverywhere
- Naengmyeon 냉면Cold buckwheat noodles, Pyongyang or Hamhung styleSeoul
- Corn 옥수수Steamed sweetcorn from the mountain farmsGangwon
Late summer fruit. Peaches are at their best.
- Boksunga 복숭아White peachesIcheon, Jochiwon
- Mulhoe 물회Raw fish in an iced, spicy brothEast coast
- Patbingsu 팥빙수Shaved ice with red beansEverywhere
Harvest moon. Chuseok, the harvest festival, falls in September or early October verify date.
- Songpyeon 송편Half-moon rice cakes steamed on pine needlesEverywhere
- Jeoneo 전어Gizzard shad, grilled wholeSouth coast
- Naju pears 배Large, crisp Asian pearsNaju
New rice, mushrooms and prawns. Maples in the mountains.
- Songi 송이Pine mushrooms, briefly grilledYangyang, Bonghwa verify
- Daeha 대하Big prawns, salt-grilledWest coast
- Haessal 햅쌀The year’s new riceEverywhere
Kimjang: families make the winter’s kimchi together. Persimmons hang under the eaves.
- Kimjang kimchi 김장김치Napa cabbage kimchi made in bulk for winterEverywhere
- Gotgam 곶감Dried persimmonsSangju, Yeongdong
- Kkomak 꼬막Cockles, blanched with soy and chilliBeolgyo, Boseong
Cold and clear. Street food is at its best when it is below zero.
- Hotteok 호떡Pancakes filled with brown sugar and seedsBusan, Seoul
- Bangeo 방어Yellowtail, raw, in seasonJeju (Moseulpo)
- Gul-bap 굴밥Oyster rice in a stone potTongyeong
How we plan
No prices online and no package codes. Each trip is drawn up for you, and you change it until it fits.
Start an enquiry- 01
A conversation
Tell us when, who and what you like. A call if you prefer.
- 02
A first route
Within a week: places, nights, trains and stays, with the reasons.
- 03
Refine it
Swap a city, add a temple night, slow it down. We quote once it fits.
- 04
Go
Tickets, guides and drivers arranged. A phone number that answers while you are there.
