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Curved tile roofs of the hanok village at sunset — Jeonju Hanok Village
Jeonju Hanok Village · Photo rawkkim / Unsplash

Food city · about 1h 40m from Seoul by KTX verify

A table that keeps filling

Best months
Apr–May, Oct
Nights
2
Getting here
KTX to Jeonju, about 1h 40m from Seoul verify
Pairs with
Boseong and the south coast
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Jeonju 전주 · The south-west

Ask a Korean where to eat and many will say Jeonju. It is the home of bibimbap, of makgeolli bars that bring a new plate with every kettle, and of a hanok quarter with several hundred tiled houses verify count.

The hanok village is busy at weekends. We stay inside it, so the early mornings and late evenings are yours, and spend the middle of the day at the paper makers and the markets outside it.

35° 49′ N, 127° 09′ E

The roofs

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Curved tile roofs of the hanok village at sunset — Jeonju Hanok Village
Jeonju Hanok Village · Photo rawkkim / Unsplash

Climb to Omokdae pavilion at sunrise for the view over the curved tile roofs before the shops open.

Paper makers

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Two women walking down a lane of hanok — Jeonju Hanok Village
Jeonju Hanok Village · Photo Mos Sukjaroenkraisri / Unsplash

Jeonju has made hanji, mulberry paper, for centuries. A workshop shows how the bark becomes sheets; you make one to take home.

A table for the evening

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A stone-paved street lined with trees and shops — Jeonju Hanok Village
Jeonju Hanok Village · Photo Ji Yong Won / Unsplash

Makgeolli houses in Samcheon-dong bring a kettle of rice wine and a spread of small plates. Order another kettle and more plates arrive.

What we’d do

Private, with a guide where it helps. Times are a guide.

Curved tile roofs of the hanok village at sunset — Jeonju Hanok Village

Paper,riceandroof tile

Hanok roofs, Jeonju

35° 49′ N, 127° 09′ E

Photo rawkkim / Unsplash

At the table

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Mon–Fri, 09:00–18:00 UK time